Setting Up The Tube And Thread

Getting your foundation right is the key to a solid fly. A secure tube and clean thread base make every step that follows much easier. Let’s go through the setup process: 

• Cut the tube: Snip a short section of tubing and slide it onto your adapter, pushing it down until it’s snug. This ensures the tube won’t roll once you begin wrapping.
• Secure in the vise: Insert the adapter into your vise and tighten so the tube stays stable.
• Choose the right thread: Both round and flat threads exist, but flat thread grips better and helps lock materials in place.
• Think about color: Thread color is flexible. You can tint it later with a fine marker. For beginners, light shades like tan or cream are handy because you can mark proportions directly on the tube.
• Break off the tag cleanly: Skip the scissors. Wrap the tag around your finger a couple of times, then pull sharply, like removing a band-aid, for a quick, clean break.

Building Volume With A Dubbing Loop

The first step in shaping the fly is creating volume. Using natural fur like arctic fox ensures the body holds shape in current without collapsing, while also keeping the fly light. Tail patches provide the best density, while strips tend to be too sparse. Here’s how to build a dubbing loop that adds the right amount of body without unnecessary bulk:

• Prepare the fur: Cut a small pinch of arctic fox close to the hide. Align the butt ends (not the tips) so they sit evenly.
• Form the loop: Drop your thread down, hook it around your finger, and bring it back up to close the loop.
• Insert fibers: Place the fox fur ends into the loop, keeping them flush. For extra hold, apply a touch of dubbing wax, chapstick, or even saliva.
• Twist and secure: Attach a weighted dubbing twister and spin until fibers are locked in. If clumps form, tease them apart with a bodkin or safety pin before adding a few more turns.
• Wrap forward: Palmer the loop up the tube, always sweeping fibers back with each turn so they sit neatly side by side.
• Final touch: Pick out any trapped hairs with a bodkin and check that you can still see thread between fibers. This is a good sign you haven’t overdressed.

Adding Extra Texture And Sheen

A touch of flash or dubbing can make a fly look more lifelike in the water. The goal is to add subtle shine without creating unnecessary bulk. Here’s a simple way to do it:

• Pinch a small amount of dubbing or flash material.
• Tie it in at the midpoint with one wrap.
• Fold the forward ends back and down.
• Secure with three tight thread wraps.

Overlaying With Rhea

To extend the length and improve movement, an overlay is added. Rhea is a durable and lively choice that creates a strong profile. Follow these steps for a clean tie-in:

• Cut 7–10 rhea fibers close to the stem.
• Bunch the butts, pull out short fibers, and keep tips aligned.
• Stack four clumps: Top, bottom, left, and right.
• Use your thumbs to shuffle each clump so it spreads out, not clumps together.
• Secure each clump with three wraps of thread.
• For smaller flies, trim fibers short; otherwise, tie long and trim later on the water. Pro tip, tear, don’t cut, to look natural.
• To avoid bulky thread build-up, pull fibers back, unwrap 12 turns, then re-secure the bundle with three fresh wraps.

Adding Flash, Collar, And Cheeks

Flash, collars, and cheeks finish the fly with detail, movement, and realism. Here’s how to apply each:

• Flash (optional): Pinch a few strands, tie at the midpoint with one wrap, fold back the ends, and secure with two more wraps. Trim excess.
• Collar: Use bloodquill marabou (less fluffy than woolly bugger). Strip away fluff, tie in by the tip with three wraps, and palmer forward while pulling fibers back. Stop at the desired density and tie off.
• Cheeks/Eyes: Tie in a feather on each side so they align evenly. Fold stems back, secure with wraps, and trim. This adds a natural eye impression and boosts angler confidence.

Finishing The Fly

The final step ensures durability and clean presentation.

• Whip finish or half-hitch a few wraps.
• Apply a drop of superglue to secure.
• Remove the tube from the adapter.
• Trim tubing, leaving about 1 mm; save the offcut for another fly.
• Add a cone head if desired for weight and profile.

Final Thoughts

Ultimately, tube flies reward precision and patience. When tied with care, they offer unmatched versatility, durability, and performance on the water. The secret is in the details: keep proportions balanced, build volume without excess, and always select quality materials. Each fly you tie builds skill and confidence, and before long, these steps will feel second nature.

Ready to expand your fly tying knowledge and learn directly from experts in the field? Join the Anchored Outdoors membership and gain access to our full library of masterclasses, step-by-step tutorials, and exclusive resources designed to elevate your fishing and tying.

The post Step-by-Step Guide to Tying Tube Flies appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

Diane Michelin is a Canadian watercolour artist whose work is deeply rooted in the spirit and subtleties of fly fishing. Born in Montreal, she now lives on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. Diane draws inspiration from the landscape, water, wildlife, flies, rods and reels, and the human moments that make up the fly-fishing experience. Over her career, she has built a global presence, with her work housed in private collections, fishing lodges, and museums around the world.

In this episode of Anchored, Diane shares how her early years, teaching career, and travels led her to become one of Canada’s most recognizable fly fishing artists and the illustrator behind The World Through Your Eyes, April Vokey’s upcoming children’s book.

Looking to go deeper with your learning? Come see what we’ve been working on at AnchoredOutdoors.com. We’ve built a library of 30 in-depth, sequentially organized Masterclasses taught by past guests of this podcast — and we’ve watched over 1,000 members grow their confidence and skills on the water. Want to check it out for free? No money down, no strings attached. Just head to anchoredoutdoors.com/premium-insiders/

Anchored listeners can get 10% off their first order with Skwala by using the code “anchored10” at check out. See for yourself at skwalafishing.com

Outline Of This Episode

[0:06] Growing up in Montreal and discovering art

[2:24] Finding independence through teaching and travel

[6:00] How meeting Denny led to her first cast

[10:43] Falling in love with fly fishing and painting fish

[13:50] Turning passion into a profession

[20:57] Evolving artistic style and the joy of small works

[22:38] Life on Vancouver Island and family connections

[30:10] Reflections on aging, creativity, and love

[47:04] Working with April Vokey on The World Through Your Eyes

Growing Up in Montreal and Discovering Art

Diane was born in Montreal in 1953 and adopted by a loving family at two and a half years old. Though shy as a child, she found her voice through creative outlets. This came first in drama and synchronized swimming, and later in art. Those activities helped her overcome a speech impediment and shaped her belief that expression often begins where words fall short.

By fifteen, she’d opened her own synchronized swimming club, competing provincially and nationally before realizing her deeper passion lay elsewhere: art. That calling led her to Paris, where she studied painting and design for a year before returning home to teach.

Finding Independence Through Teaching and Travel

Before art became her full-time pursuit, Diane taught French and history in Quebec and Ontario. She was the kind of teacher who found unconventional ways to inspire her students, using theatre, storytelling, and puppetry to reach even the shyest kids. Her lessons often turned into creative projects that stayed with them for years.

Her teaching career also took her around the world. From organizing school trips to China and Greece to speaking at conferences, she always wove art and adventure together. These experiences expanded her worldview and reinforced her love for culture, people, and discovery.

How Meeting Denny Led to Her First Cast

Life took a new turn when Diane met Denny, a teacher and fly fisher with a voice she describes as “irresistible.” Their connection was immediate, and soon after meeting, he invited her to join him on a trip to British Columbia. She had never fished before, but love has a way of making anything seem possible.

Diane found herself on the banks of the Kitimat River with a fly rod in hand, laughing through back pain, tangled lines, and sunburns. It was both frustrating and magical, and the beginning of a passion that would define the next two decades of her life.

Falling in Love with Fly Fishing and Painting Fish

As Diane learned to fish, she began seeing the river differently. The movement of the water, the rhythm of casting, and the fleeting flash of a fish all became inspiration for her art. Denny encouraged her to explore this connection, reminding her that few artists painted fly fishing in a way that captured both its spirit and intimacy.

Soon, she began painting fish, anglers, and the rivers she loved. Each brushstroke reflected her fascination with detail, from the shimmer of a trout’s scales to the soft light of a misty morning. Her art caught the attention of galleries and collectors across North America.

Evolving Artistic Style and the Joy of Small Works

Over time, Diane’s art evolved from highly detailed realism to something looser and more emotional. When the pandemic arrived, she shifted to daily challenges, such as painting 100 portraits in 100 days or 365 sketches in a year. These exercises rekindled her joy for painting and helped her develop a more spontaneous, expressive style.

Today, she prefers painting small, affordable works that connect with people personally. For her, it’s less about perfection and more about emotion, the feeling of a moment captured on paper.

Reflections on Creativity, Family, and Collaboration

Diane now lives on Vancouver Island, where she finds peace in its quiet rhythms and coastal scenery. She continues to paint, teach workshops, and share her love of art with others. Her story is one of resilience and reinvention, a reminder that creativity never stops evolving, no matter your age or circumstances.

Working with April Vokey on The World Through Your Eyes

Diane’s collaboration with April Vokey on The World Through Your Eyes marked a meaningful chapter in her artistic journey. The children’s book blends April’s storytelling with Diane’s expressive watercolours, encouraging young readers to slow down and see nature with curiosity and care. 

Both women share a deep respect for wild places, and their partnership highlights the connection between fly fishing, creativity, and conservation. The project stands as a timeless reminder of how art and nature continue to inspire one another.

Discover More From Diane Michelin

To explore Diane Michelin’s artwork and follow her creative process, visit her Instagram at @dimipaints. There, she shares her studio work, nature-inspired paintings, and behind-the-scenes glimpses into her illustration projects.

For updates on The World Through Your Eyes, the children’s book written by April Vokey and illustrated by Diane, and for more stories that connect art, fly fishing, and the outdoors, visit www.TheWorldThroughYourEyes.com or follow April Vokey on social media:

Instagram: @Anchored_Outdoors
Facebook: @AnchoredOutdoorsOfficial
YouTube: Anchored with April Vokey

The post Anchored Podcast Ep. 276: Diane Michelin on Painting, Wild Places, and Inspiration appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

This pattern works for a variety of species and situations. It can mimic everything from spotfin shiners and chubs to steelhead fry in the spring. With a few small tweaks, it can be fished for smallmouth bass in summer or migratory fish when the temperatures drop. In this article, we’ll break down how to tie Kevin Feenstra’s Code Breaker Fly step-by-step, from the materials you’ll need to the exact method used to bring this productive fly to life.

Materials You Will Need

• Hook: #10 Daiichi 2461
• Shank: Short or long shank
• Tail: Grey olive craft fur, yellow ice dub, shrimp pink ice dub
• Shoulders: Mallard spey
• Wing: Kreelex, blue ripple ice fiber
• Flash: Wide flash
• Collar: Large mallard feather or other large spey hackle
• Head: Bead chain eyes

Code Breaker Fly Tying Instructions

1. Prepare the hook and eyes

Cover the hook or shank with thread to create a solid base. Position bead chain eyes about one-third of the way back from the hook eye. This placement helps form a triangular head shape, much like a natural baitfish.

2. Add the tail core

Tie in a braided loop about four inches long with a knot at the back. This knot may not be the prettiest feature, but it adds strength and keeps the fly from failing after a hard take. Secure it with thread wraps and a small drop of glue.

3. Add flash to the tail

Use Easter basket flash or lateral scale. Cut it at an angle, fold it over, and tie it in so it resembles a baitfish tail in the water.

4. Build the main tail

Tie in a section of grey olive craft fur. Leaving it slightly uneven adds movement in the water. In front of that, dub a small section of yellow ice dub to create contrast and bulk.

5. Add the shoulders

Tie in a mallard flank feather behind the eyes. This flares the flash outwards and adds a realistic shimmer when the fly moves.

6. Add the wing flash

In front of the first feather, tie in blue UV ripple ice fiber or UV crystal flash. These subtle reflective fibers make the fly stand out just enough to catch a fish’s attention.

7. Create the collar

Tie in a second, larger mallard flank feather and wrap it forward in open spirals toward the eyes. Keep the wraps evenly spaced for a balanced profile.

8. Form the head

Blend shrimp pink ice dub with the yellow already in place, starting with a thicker clump at the back and tapering forward toward the eyes. This pink-and-yellow combination is highly effective for both steelhead and smallmouth.

9. Finish with the top flash

Lay a strip of Kreelex or pearl flash over the top of the fly, folding it so it covers both the top and bottom. This completes the baitfish silhouette. Secure everything with thread, trim excess fibers, and add a drop of glue to lock it all in.

Learn More from Kevin Feenstra

If you want to take your baitfish fishing to the next level, you can learn directly from the source. Renowned guide and author Kevin Feenstra shares his expertise in a 54-chapter Anchored Outdoors course that covers how, when, where, and why to fish baitfish, as well as how to tie them. It’s packed with insight for anglers of all skill levels. Check it out today! 

The post How to Tie Kevin Feenstra’s Code Breaker Fly for Steelhead and Smallmouth appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

James Christmas is an accomplished fishing guide whose career has taken him from the remote flats of the Seychelles to destinations across the globe. Known for his skill in putting anglers onto everything from bonefish to giant trevally, James combines deep technical knowledge with an easygoing guiding style that keeps clients coming back. Alongside his guiding, he has designed influential flies such as the NYAP (Not Your Average Popper), patterns now used by anglers worldwide.

Help support Catherine: https://givesendgo.com/Giveasmile?utm_source=sharelink&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_campaign=Giveasmile

Looking to go deeper with your learning? Come see what we’ve been working on at AnchoredOutdoors.com. We’ve built a library of 30 in-depth, sequentially organized Masterclasses taught by past guests of this podcast — and we’ve watched over 1,000 members grow their confidence and skills on the water. Want to check it out for free? No money down, no strings attached. Just head to anchoredoutdoors.com/premium-insiders/

Anchored listeners can get 10% off their first order with Skwala by using the code “anchored10” at check out. See for yourself at skwalafishing.com

The post Anchored Podcast Ep. 275: James Christmas on the Seychelles, South Africa, the NYAP and Giving Back appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

Brian Silvey is a legendary Oregon guide and fly designer who has guided 40 years on the Deschutes and Sandy Rivers. Known for his innovative patterns, he’s guided generations of anglers while sharing a lifetime of knowledge about the rivers, fish, and techniques that define Northwest fly fishing. In this episode of Anchored, he joins us to do just that.

Looking to go deeper with your learning? Come see what we’ve been working on at AnchoredOutdoors.com. We’ve built a library of 30 in-depth, sequentially organized Masterclasses taught by past guests of this podcast — and we’ve watched over 1,000 members grow their confidence and skills on the water. Want to check it out for free? No money down, no strings attached. Just head to anchoredoutdoors.com/premium-insiders/

Anchored listeners can get 10% off their first order with Skwala by using the code “anchored10” at check out. See for yourself at skwalafishing.com

Outline Of This Episode

[0:00] Growing up fishing the rivers around Mount Hood
[3:40] Discovering fly tying before he owned a fly rod
[10:18] Understanding summer and winter steelhead behavior
[31:12] The rise of spey casting in Oregon
[48:44] Tracking flies and why silhouettes matter
[56:59] Consistent swings and reading feedback
[1:02:33] Water temperature, sun angle, and adapting to change

Growing Up Near Mount Hood

Brian’s passion for steelhead began when he was young, spending long days exploring the rivers and creeks near Mount Hood. The more time he spent outside, the more he wanted to understand the fish that lived there. Those early years helped him build instincts that cannot be learned from books alone. He credits those childhood adventures with shaping his approach to guiding and keeping his excitement alive decades later.

Discovering Fly Tying First

Before he ever owned a fly rod, Brian picked up a vise. He sold flies at Mark’s Fly Shop and learned the importance of proportion, durability, and function from anglers who relied on his patterns. Tying taught him how small changes in shape or material affect how a fly swims. That early foundation still shows in his fly designs today, which are built to fish well in real conditions, not just look good in the box.

Summer vs Winter Steelhead

Brian explains that summer and winter fish behave very differently once they enter freshwater. Summer steelhead stay bright and active, so a fly near the surface often gets the best response. Winter fish conserve energy and usually react to a slower swing with a stronger profile. Understanding those seasonal differences helps anglers choose not only the right fly but also the right confidence level. Believing in your presentation can keep you fishing through the quiet stretches.

Spey Casting Comes to Oregon

When two-handed rods first arrived in the Pacific Northwest, Brian was one of the guides who embraced the change. He saw how these rods made swinging more efficient and enjoyable, especially in big water. Over the years, tackle has evolved, but Brian believes it is still more about rhythm than distance. He encourages anglers to focus on smooth technique and clear feedback rather than trying to overpower the cast.

Why Tracking Matters

A fly that holds its line through the swing creates more opportunities. If it wobbles, spins, or twists, fish lose interest quickly. Brian considers tracking a key part of fly design and often tweaks wings and materials to improve how the fly swims. Silhouette also plays a major role in how steelhead respond. He pays close attention to how the pattern looks from below, because that is the angle the fish see first.

Small Adjustments That Lead to More Grabs

When a fish follows or boils without committing, Brian encourages anglers to repeat the swing exactly the same before changing anything. Sometimes the fish simply needs a second chance. If there is still no grab, a small step up or down the run might align the fly perfectly. These subtle tweaks, repeated with confidence, have turned many reactions into hookups throughout Brian’s guiding career.

Discover More From Brian Silvey

If you enjoyed this conversation and want to learn even more from Brian and other experts in the fly fishing community, come hang out with us at Anchored Outdoors. You’ll find new episodes, helpful instructions, and inspiration for your next day on the water.

Instagram: @Anchored_Outdoors
Facebook: @AnchoredOutdoorsOfficial
YouTube: Anchored with April Vokey

The post Anchored Podcast Ep. 274: In the Current with Brian Silvey appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

In a recent Anchored Outdoors session, Allen walked us through Dave’s techniques, tying insights, and presentation strategies. Today, we’re sharing some of that knowledge to help you fish the NearNuff Crayfish with confidence.

Why Crayfish Matter

Crayfish are found in nearly every freshwater system in North America. With over 380 species on the continent, they make up a huge part of the diet for predatory fish like bass, trout, and carp. Crayfish spend most of their time on the bottom, which means your fly needs to be durable, snag-resistant, and able to maintain good bottom contact throughout the retrieve.

Getting the Fly Right

Tying the NearNuff Crayfish is all about combining realism, movement, and durability. It starts with a solid mono foundation: a piece of hard monofilament glued to the hook shank and reinforced with thread and adhesive. This foundation strengthens the fly, locks materials in place, and provides a base for adding lead eyes and other features.

The claws are typically crafted from two matching feathers, bonded together for shape and durability. Their length mirrors the body of the fly, creating a balanced profile. A touch of orange paint on the tips acts as a visual cue that draws strikes. For the antennae, a mix of rubber legs and Crystal Flash is used, with each piece cut to a slightly different length. This allows them to flutter and shift individually, adding realistic movement with every strip.

Strong adhesives like ZappaGap, Flexament, and Softex are applied in key areas to hold everything together. This makes the fly tough enough to fish through rocks, stumps, and dense cover, right where the fish are waiting.

Presentation Matters

Crayfish live right on the bottom. If your fly isn’t touching the bottom regularly, you’re not fishing it right. Allen shared several presentation styles depending on water type and depth:

• Floating lines with long fluorocarbon leaders and indicators can work in slower water. The key here is to get the fly down and use the current or subtle rod movements to hop it along the bottom.
• Sink-tip lines offer a more direct way to maintain bottom contact. Keep your leader short and use the end of your fly line to detect strikes.
• Full-sinking lines are ideal when you’re fishing deeper water with heavier currents. Techniques like the jerk-strip or swing-nymphing help you keep the fly low and moving naturally.

In all cases, leaders should be kept short and flies must be weighted properly with lead eyes to reach and stay on the bottom. If your fly is drifting more than a few inches above the bottom, you’re likely out of the strike zone.

Customizing for Your Water

Crayfish come in a wide range of colors and sizes, and choosing the right look can make a big difference. From dark olives to rusty reds and even pale, almost translucent shades, it helps to pay attention to what’s actually living in your local water. 

A simple place to start is by matching the color of the stream or lake bottom. If the rocks are sandy, go tan. If you’re fishing over grass beds, try olive. And during molting season, soft-shelled crayfish turn a distinct orange, an easy meal that fish won’t pass up.

Weed Guards and Finishing Touches

Adding a mono weed guard helps keep the fly from snagging in heavy cover, but it has to be done right. The mono needs to be stiff enough to deflect snags, yet soft enough to allow a proper hookset. Trimming and testing them after tying is critical for balance.

Finally, Allen’s method of finishing the head with ZappaGap, rather than traditional head cement, makes for a fast, clean, and durable result.

Explore More With Our Free Insider Membership

This is just the surface of what Allen shared in his Anchored Outdoors session. In Phase 3 of our content library, you’ll find the full NearNuff Crayfish segment, where he breaks down every detail, from tying materials to in-depth rigging and casting techniques. 

Become a Premium Insider today to unlock this expert-level tutorial and take your fly tying and fishing skills to the next level. You’ll walk away with the confidence to fish this pattern in tough conditions, and the know-how to tie it right every time.

The post Allen Rupp Breaks Down The NearNuff Crayfish appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

Keep It Simple: Three Main Categories

Start by breaking your fly choices into three basic groups: baitfish, creepy crawlers, and insects. These categories provide a solid foundation to work from. Not every fly will produce results every day, but thinking in these terms helps you narrow things down based on what the fish are actively feeding on.

Baitfish patterns sit higher in the water column and can be incredibly effective, especially when tied with the right belly colors. Think back to the gear-fishing world and jerk baits – those belly colors make a difference. Pink, chartreuse, white, and especially orange are all proven triggers. The key is contrast: light on the bottom, dark on top. That contrast helps fish see the fly more clearly, whether the water is stained or crystal clear. This is also where more “outside-the-box” color combos like Tutti Frutti can really shine.

Don’t forget about the “young of the year,” either. These are juvenile versions of common native species, like yellow perch or freshwater drum that become prime food sources for larger predators. Small rabbit strip closures are a great go-to when these baitfish hatches start happening, especially in late summer when fish begin chasing them in open water.

Pay Attention to the Hatches

One of the biggest game changers in the Great Lakes and similar systems is the massive mayfly hatch. These hatches are so dense in places like Lake Erie and Lake St. Clair that storefronts have to be cleared with leaf blowers. During this time, fish can become laser-focused on mayflies, and traditional baitfish patterns often stop working.

This is where fly anglers sometimes have the upper hand. Downsizing your tippet and switching to floating or intermediate lines can be the difference-maker. Popper fishing also shines during the hatch, especially when fish are looking up. Smaller poppers that match the hatch and subtle dragonfly or damsel patterns in white, green, or blue can be super effective.

And here’s a tip: look for the windward side of coves and flats where mayfly carcasses get trapped. These areas become buffets for bass, panfish, and even carp, creating prime surface action.

Don’t Forget the Bottom Feeders

Once the hatch slows down, or on calmer days, it’s time to switch gears and think about bottom-oriented food sources, specifically, the round goby. Though once seen as an invasive pest, this soft-bodied baitfish now makes up a huge portion of the smallmouth diet on the western end of Lake Erie.

Goby patterns should resemble sculpin flies with a bulky head and a tapering body. Pick up both light and dark versions to match different water and lighting conditions. But here’s the kicker: gobies don’t swim far off the bottom, so keep your strips low and tight. Aggressive strips can work, but you’ll want to maintain bottom contact or get right back down after a retrieve. These flies excel on calm, slow days when predators aren’t actively chasing.

Final Thoughts

At the end of the day, fly selection does not have to be complicated. Stick with the three core categories – baitfish, creepy crawlers, and insects – and stay tuned in to what is happening in and on the water. With the right colors, awareness of seasonal hatches, and a few trusted patterns, you will be ready for most conditions you encounter.

Want to keep learning from Jeff Liskay? He goes even deeper into fly selection for big water in his full class, covering techniques, patterns, and strategies that work. Unlock the complete course by clicking here. 

The post Breaking Down Fly Selection for Bass and Beyond appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

Allen Rupp is a seasoned fly tier with over 35 years of experience, renowned for his precision and dedication to the craft. As the founder of Fly On The Water, he offers high-quality, hand-tied flies and imparts his knowledge through instructional classes. Significantly, Allen was mentored by the legendary Dave Whitlock, who personally taught him to tie patterns like the NearNuff Crayfish and Sculpin. This mentorship has deeply influenced Allen’s approach, allowing him to continue Whitlock’s legacy by teaching these patterns to new generations of anglers. In this episode of Anchored, Allen shares the story.

This episode of Anchored is brought to you by BetterHelp.

On Anchored, we dive deep into conversations about the outdoors, personal growth, and the challenges that come with both. One topic that comes up time and time again is mental health—because let’s be honest, life can be tough, and the stresses of work, relationships, and even the activities we love can take a toll. Whether it’s managing anxiety, dealing with burnout, or simply striving for a better sense of balance, taking care of your mind is just as important as taking care of your body.

Therapy isn’t just for people in crisis—it’s a powerful tool for building resilience, setting boundaries, and developing positive coping strategies. Traditional in-person therapy can cost up to $250 per session, but with BetterHelp, you can save up to 50% while getting professional support from the world’s largest online therapy platform. With over 30,000 therapists and the flexibility to switch providers anytime, BetterHelp makes therapy more accessible and convenient.

Your well-being is worth investing in. Visit BetterHelp.com/ANCHORED today to get 10% off your first month.

The post Anchored Podcast Ep. 264: Allen Rupp on Being Mentored by Dave Whitlock appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

Choosing the Right Hook and Weight

A good hook and the right amount of weight are essential for getting the Near-Nuff Sculpin to perform properly. The right combination helps the fly ride correctly in the water and reach the desired depth. Here’s what to consider:

• Hook Choice: The Tiemco 708 hook features a 2X long shank and a 40-degree bend, ensuring the fly rides hook point up, reducing snags.
• Weight Options:
  • Double Pupil Eyes: Adds weight for a fast sink rate, ideal for deep water.
  • Tungsten Eyes: Even heavier, great for strong currents and deep runs.
  • Brass Eyes: Lighter option for shallow streams and slower water.
• Adjustability: Swapping out different weights allows you to fine-tune the fly for varying water conditions.

Selecting the Best Materials

The materials you choose for the Near-Nuff Sculpin play a big role in how well it performs in the water. From movement to durability, every component matters.

• Tail Selection: Whiting bugger hackle feathers are ideal for creating a natural swimming action. Matching two feathers so they mirror each other helps keep the tail straight and balanced.
• Body Material: Arizona Semi-Seal dubbing adds the right mix of translucency and movement, giving the fly a realistic profile. A bugger hackle feather palmered through the body adds just enough bulk and motion.
• Adding Flash: A few strands of polar flash along the sides help mimic the natural shine of baitfish, making the pattern more enticing to fish.

Tying the Near-Nuff Sculpin

Here’s a step-by-step breakdown of tying this effective pattern:

1. Secure the Eyes: Start your thread just behind the hook bend and attach the weighted eyes with a series of figure-eight wraps. Add a small drop of super glue to keep them from rotating.
2. Tie in the Tail: Match two bugger hackle feathers, trim the stems, and tie them in straight to ensure proper movement.
3. Add the Body Material: Apply Arizona Semi-Seal dubbing, creating a smooth taper from the tail to the weighted eyes.
4. Wrap the Hackle: Palmer a bugger hackle feather through the body, securing it with tight wraps.
5. Add Flash: Tie in a few strands of polar flash along the sides to enhance visibility.
6. Build the Head: Use a dubbing loop to create a dense, sculpin-like head, wrapping it around the eyes rather than the hook shank for a fuller profile.
7. Finish and Brush Out: Whip finish the fly and aggressively brush the head to create a realistic shape.

Fishing the Near-Nuff Sculpin

The Near-Nuff Sculpin is a go-to pattern for anglers looking to imitate sculpins and other small baitfish. One of the most effective ways to fish it is in a two-streamer rig, spacing them about four feet apart on 3X tippet. The long hook point ensures solid hook-ups and its realistic profile makes it an easy meal for predatory fish.

For trout or bass in moving water, try a strip-and-pause retrieve to mimic the erratic, darting movement of a sculpin. If you’re fishing slower currents, a dead-drift presentation can work just as well, letting the fly tumble naturally along the riverbed.

Ready to Take Your Tying Skills Further?

As you can see, the Near-Nuff Sculpin is one of those patterns every angler should have in their box. But there’s always more to learn. 

If you’re ready to take your fly-tying skills to the next level, check out Clark “Cheech” Pierce’s newly launched fly-tying course on Anchored Outdoors. In this in-depth class, Cheech breaks down the techniques, materials, and methods behind some of the most effective streamer patterns out there.

Sign up today and start tying flies that fish can’t resist!

The post Learn to Tie the Near-Nuff Sculpin with Clark “Cheech” Pierce appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

Building the Perfect Nymph Team

Choosing the right nymphs can feel overwhelming, especially for new anglers. It’s tempting to fill a fly box with patterns that look impressive; however, they may not work well together. This is where a well-rounded collection becomes essential. 

Each fly should play a specific role, transitioning seamlessly to cover different scenarios. That way, if one pattern isn’t producing results, another can step in and save the day. Furthermore, carrying at least two of each pattern is a smart move because the fly you lose will almost always be the one that’s catching all the fish that day!

Imitative vs. Attractor Flies

Nymphs can be divided into two main categories: imitative and attractor flies. Imitative nymphs are crafted to mimic specific aquatic life forms, such as insect larvae, fish eggs, or aquatic worms. These flies often yield the best results since they closely resemble what trout naturally eat.

On the other hand, attractor flies rely on unique designs, colors, and shapes to grab attention. As Skip Morris explains, “I will actually catch more fish on bizarre attractor flies than on imitative flies… about one out of three or one out of four times.” While they don’t resemble any specific creature, their unique designs, bold colors, and unconventional shapes make them an essential tool in any angler’s kit.

The Importance of Presentation

Having the perfect fly means little if you don’t fish it correctly. According to Skip, how you fish a fly is as important as the fly itself. Depth, drift, and lifelike movement are critical to enticing trout. A well-fished, “just passable” fly often outperforms a poorly presented, perfectly matched pattern.

To maximize your chances of success, pay attention to where and how you cast, ensuring the fly sinks to the appropriate depth and mimics the natural behavior of aquatic life. This approach not only improves your catch rate but also enhances your overall angling experience.

Understanding Bead Flies

Bead flies, identified by the metal bead at their head, are a must-have for nymph fishing. The bead’s primary function is to help the fly sink quickly, ensuring it reaches trout holding near the stream bed. There are two main types of beads:

• Brass Beads: These lighter beads are ideal for slower-moving streams, as they allow for more natural movement in the water.
• Tungsten Beads: Heavier than brass, tungsten beads are better suited for fast-flowing waters, where a quick descent is crucial.

By choosing the right bead for the conditions, you can ensure your fly performs effectively, maximizing its time in the strike zone.

Alternatives and Adaptability

Even with a curated set of flies, availability can sometimes be an issue. Skip’s solution is to include two alternative patterns for each of his 12 primary nymphs. These substitutes are just as effective, ensuring you’re never caught unprepared. With these options, you can adapt to changing conditions and maintain a versatile, functional collection.

Ready to Master Nymph Fishing?

If you’re ready to take your nymph fishing skills to the next level, Skip Morris’s book, 12 Essential Trout Stream Nymphs, is a must-have addition to your library. This comprehensive resource delves deeper into nymph selection, techniques, and strategies. To see Skip in action, sign up for exclusive video tutorials at Anchored Outdoors, where you’ll gain firsthand insights into building and fishing your ultimate nymph collection!

The post Skip Morris Top 12 Nymphs for Trout Streams appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

The Importance of Quality Materials

In classic fly tying, the materials you choose can make or break your patterns. Quality hooks, feathers, threads, and dubbing aren’t just about aesthetics; they directly affect the durability and functionality of your flies. For instance, feathers like kori bustard and golden pheasant add elegance to your patterns, but they also provide superior performance in the water.

Thread selection is equally important. Natural silk, such as Lagartun or Pearsall’s, provides both strength and a sleek finish, while modern synthetic threads may work for some applications but often lack the classic luster of silk. When it comes to dubbing, traditional materials like pig’s wool and seal are favored for their unique texture and the way they glow underwater, creating a lifelike appearance that synthetic options can’t replicate.

Hooks That Stand the Test of Time

Classic flies often require specific types of hooks to maintain their traditional proportions and structure. However, finding high-quality hooks has become a challenge as many iconic designs are discontinued or replaced with less reliable alternatives. Hooks like the Partridge CS101 or Alec Jackson heavy-wire models are sought after for their durability and classic shapes, making them ideal for creating flies that stay true to their historical roots.

For modern tiers, custom-made hooks or vintage stock can be excellent solutions, but they often come at a premium. For those on a budget, exploring alternative hooks that mimic the traditional styles can still yield beautiful and functional patterns.

Techniques for Timeless Patterns

Crafting classic flies involves a combination of precision and creativity. One of the most crucial aspects is mastering proportions, which ensures the finished fly is both functional and visually balanced. For example, when tying Spey flies, the long, flowing hackles must complement the body and wings, creating a pattern that moves naturally in the water.

Understanding how to handle delicate materials is also key. For feathers like goose or turkey, ensuring the edges are clean and well-prepared helps maintain a polished look and allows the materials to marry seamlessly when creating intricate wings. For dubbing, natural fibers like pig’s wool are preferred for their ability to mimic the subtle movements of aquatic insects.

Making the Most of Your Craft

Classic fly tying is as much about resourcefulness as it is about artistry. With the right materials and a bit of practice, you can create patterns that pay homage to tradition while performing exceptionally on the water. Whether you’re experimenting with alternative feathers, perfecting your thread tension, or learning to work with vintage hooks, every step helps you grow as a fly tier.

Ready to Elevate Your Fly Tying Game?

If you’re eager to refine your skills and explore the art of classic fly tying, Anchored Outdoors has you covered. Join celebrated fly tier Will Bush in his comprehensive mini-course, where you’ll learn everything from material selection to advanced techniques. Discover the secrets to crafting timeless patterns, including how to source rare materials, create perfect proportions, and tie flies built to last. Start your journey here and bring your classic fly-tying to the next level!

The post A Fly Tier’s Guide to Materials for Spey and Dee Patterns appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

Why Tie a Heavy Mayfly Nymph?

Mayfly nymphs play a crucial role in a trout’s diet, particularly during their vulnerable journey from the riverbed to the surface. This transition makes them an easy target for feeding fish, especially in fast-moving waters. Tying a mayfly nymph specifically designed for Czech nymphing allows you to effectively fish deeper currents where trout often feed. Using materials like tungsten beads and lead-free wire ensures the fly sinks quickly and stays in the prime feeding zone, increasing your chances of a successful catch.

Materials You’ll Need

Here’s a quick rundown of what you’ll need to tie this pattern:

These materials are chosen for their durability, weight, and natural appearance. They also ensure the fly’s ability to sink quickly and imitate the natural behavior of mayfly nymphs.

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Prepare the Hook and Bead 

Start by sliding a slotted tungsten bead onto the jig hook. The slot allows the bead to sit snugly around the bend of the hook, ensuring stability and proper alignment.

2. Wrap the Body Weight

Wrap the lead-free wire around the hook shank 11 times to create a solid base for the fly’s body. Push the wire up against the bead and make an additional five turns to form a slight cone shape. This shape mimics the natural taper of a mayfly nymph and helps create a streamlined profile. Secure the wire with a dab of super glue to keep everything in place.

3. Start the Thread Base

Tie your thread just behind the wire wraps, covering them completely. This step ensures a smooth surface for the body materials and helps prevent the fly from falling apart during use.

4. Tie in the Tail and Ribbing

Take about eight pheasant tail fibers, aligning their tips evenly. Tie them in so the tail extends about the length of the hook bend. Next, tie in a length of extra-small copper wire for ribbing. Position the wire so it will wrap counter to the pheasant tail fibers, adding durability.

5. Wrap the Body

Wrap the pheasant tail fibers forward in tight, touching turns, forming the body. Secure them just behind the bead and trim any excess. Then, rib the body with the copper wire in the opposite direction, making five evenly spaced wraps. Secure the wire behind the bead and twist it off.

6. Add the Wing Collar

Take a CDC feather and strip the fibers from both sides, aligning them to extend just past the body. Tie in the fibers behind the bead with a couple of secure wraps. Fold the fibers back, make two more wraps, and whip finish to lock everything in place. Trim any excess fibers for a clean, natural look.

Why This Fly Works

The heavy tungsten bead and lead-free wire ensure this fly sinks rapidly, reaching the feeding zone in fast currents. The pheasant tail fibers and copper ribbing create a natural appearance and movement, while the CDC wing collar traps air bubbles, adding lifelike motion underwater. Even if the fly starts to fall apart after multiple uses, its exposed copper ribbing and red thread underbelly can continue to attract strikes.

Tips for Fishing This Fly

Ready to Tie and Try?

Tying your own mayfly nymph not only gives you the satisfaction of creating something by hand but also ensures you have the perfect fly for targeting fish in fast, deep waters. With the right materials and technique, this nymph becomes an essential addition to your fly box, ready to handle even the trickiest currents. By mastering this pattern, you’ll be better equipped to match the hatch and keep your presentation right where the fish are feeding.

Looking for step-by-step guidance? Clint Goyette demonstrates how to tie the nymph featured in this guide as part of our online Czech Nymphing course. Learn directly from a seasoned expert and sharpen your fly fishing skills with Anchored Outdoors. Join the course today and take the first step toward fly fishing success!

The post A Practical Guide To Tying the Nymph in Czech Nymphing appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.