Finding The Fish: What To Look For

Flats fishing is all about observation. The ability to recognize fish movement, feeding patterns, and environmental cues will make or break your day on the water. On the flats, fish like bonefish, permit, and tarpon move with the tide, following their food sources (shrimp, crabs, and baitfish) into shallow water.

When scanning the water, look for:

Understanding Tides And Their Impact

Tides play a massive role in flats fishing, dictating when and where fish will be feeding. As the tide rises, fish move onto the flats to hunt for shrimp and crabs in the shallows. As it falls, they retreat to deeper water, making them less accessible to anglers.

Here’s how different tide stages affect your approach:

Perfecting Your Ready Position

Success in flats fishing comes down to preparation. The time between spotting a fish and making a cast is often just a few seconds, so having a strong, ready position is essential.

Casting Techniques For The Flats

Unlike river fishing, where you often have more time to adjust, flats fishing demands quick, accurate casts. The key to success is controlling your line speed, minimizing false casts, and landing the fly softly to avoid spooking fish.

Making Every Trip A Success

At the end of the day, flats fishing is as much about the experience as it is about catching fish. Whether you’re chasing bonefish, permit, or tarpon, approaching each trip with patience and an open mind will make you a better angler in the long run. The best flats anglers spend just as much time observing as they do casting, learning the subtleties of the water, and adjusting their tactics accordingly.

Take Your Saltwater Fly Fishing To The Next Level

Ready to step up your game on the flats? Wil Flack’s online Flats Fishing masterclass is sure to help. Whether you’re new to saltwater fly fishing or looking to refine your skills, this class will give you the confidence to spot fish, make the perfect cast, and land more catches.

Join today and start fishing smarter, not harder!

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Omeko “Meko” Glinton is a renowned Bahamian fly-fishing guide with over two decades of experience. Beginning his professional journey at the age of eighteen, Meko has established himself as one of the premier bonefish guides in the world.

In 2024, Meko was featured in the film Meko, which highlights the impacts of climate change on the livelihoods of Grand Bahama’s original fly-fishing guide families. His deep connection to the waters of the Bahamas and commitment to conservation make him a respected voice in the industry.

Currently, Meko operates Meko Experience, offering world-class fly fishing and spa experiences on Grand Bahama Island. His dedication to the sport and his community continues to inspire anglers and conservationists alike. In this episode of Anchored, we discuss his role in one of the longest generational legacies in fly-fishing guiding, flats fishing techniques, his latest project, lodge, and more.

The post Anchored Podcast Ep. 260: Meko Glinton on Guiding in the Bahamas, Flats Fishing Tricks, and More appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

The Elusive Nature of Permit

One of the reasons permit fishing is so difficult is due to the fish’s behavior and habitat. Permit are incredibly cautious and selective, which makes them tough to catch. These fish tend to live in deep waters and come onto coral flats during tidal changes to feed. This behavior adds an element of unpredictability, requiring anglers to be constantly aware of their surroundings, tidal movements, and the fish’s patterns.

Why Permit Fishing is Like Bowhunting

Permit fishing is often compared to bowhunting because both require stealth, patience, and precision. Every movement counts when you’re on the water, just as it does in the woods. In permit fishing, the key is making the perfect cast at exactly the right moment. If your fly lands in the wrong spot or too close to the fish, you’ll likely spook them, and your opportunity will vanish. Adding to the challenge is the difficulty of spotting these fish, which can feel like trying to find a needle in a haystack. Once you see them, the fast-paced action that follows can feel like a “fire drill,” where everything has to come together quickly before the moment is lost.

The Importance of Timing and Environment

When it comes to permit fishing, understanding the environment is key to increasing your chances of success. Factors like tides, wind, and the sun’s position all play a significant role in determining where permit will be and how they’ll behave. For example, permit often move between deeper waters and flats, depending on the tides, waiting for the optimal moment to feed. As an angler, keeping track of these environmental shifts is essential. By positioning yourself based on these changes, you’ll set yourself up for better opportunities to target permit effectively.

Tackle and Technique

While having the right tackle is crucial, knowing how to use it is even more important. In permit fishing, things like fly size, profile, and color certainly matter. However, the way you present and retrieve the fly can make or break your chances. You might have the perfect fly, but if your retrieve isn’t convincing, it won’t trigger a bite. It’s essential to focus on both technique and gear. You could present the same fly to several permit, and while some might pass it by, others may strike depending on how well it’s worked in the water.

Patience and Persistence Pay Off

Permit fishing is not for the faint of heart. It requires patience, persistence, and a deep love for the challenge. More often than not, you’ll face disappointment. Many anglers attempt permit fishing once and never return, choosing easier species like bonefish instead. Yet, for those who thrive on the challenge, the reward of catching a permit makes every frustrating moment worth it. As Wil puts it, “When it does happen, it’s so gratifying.”

The Emotional Rollercoaster

One of the most common experiences in permit fishing is the emotional highs and lows. There’s the rush of spotting a permit, quickly followed by the anxiety of getting your line and fly in the correct position, and then the frustration when the fish doesn’t take. Even seasoned guides like Wil admit that the process can be mentally exhausting. Still, the challenge keeps us coming back, as each day offers new lessons and opportunities to improve.

A Unique Experience in Belize

Belize is one of the top destinations for permit fishing in the world, thanks to its abundant coral flats and diverse marine life. The pristine fishery offers a higher chance of encountering these elusive fish than many other places. The rich habitat creates the perfect conditions for permit, making Belize a bucket-list destination for dedicated anglers. Whether you’re new to permit fishing or looking for the ultimate challenge, Belize should definitely be on your radar.

At the end of the day, permit fishing is the ultimate test of patience, skill, and persistence. The challenge of landing one of these elusive fish is what makes it so rewarding. While success isn’t guaranteed, the pursuit itself is what draws anglers to this demanding style of fishing. If you’re ready for the challenge, consider joining one of our exclusive permit fishing trips, where you can learn from experts and increase your chances on the water.

Want to learn more? Check out Wil Flack’s exclusive episode, where he shares expert insights on permit fishing, fly presentation, and how to master fishing tides. If you’re not a member of Anchored Outdoors, sign up today to gain full access to Wil’s online course and much more from top anglers around the world!

The post Permit Fishing Unveiled: Strategies, Challenges, and Rewards with Wil Flack appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

Understanding the Basics of Big Water Fishing

Fishing large lakes and rivers presents unique challenges. With bigger water come more variables: changing weather, diverse fish species, and different water conditions. One of the most important things you can do is get to know the specific water you’re fishing. Whether it’s the Great Lakes or a local inland lake, understanding the terrain, currents, and fish habits will give you an advantage.

Choosing the Right Species to Target

Fishing large bodies of water can be challenging due to the wide range of species available. The key is understanding which fish are active during different times of the year and under varying conditions. For example, smallmouth bass, walleye, and migratory trout each respond differently to changes in water temperature and food availability. By researching the feeding patterns and seasonal habits of your target species, you’ll be better equipped to adjust your tactics and increase your chances of success.

Gear Up for Success

Having the right gear is essential when fishing big waters. Over the years, fishing equipment has evolved, making it easier to handle the demands of large lakes and rivers. Today’s technology has given anglers better rods, reels, and lines specifically designed for everything from lightweight casts to deeper waters. Investing in gear that matches the conditions you’re facing will not only make your experience smoother but also improve your chances of landing more fish.

Reading the Water and Conditions

One of the most important skills when fishing large lakes or rivers is the ability to read the water. Factors like current, water clarity, and temperature all affect where fish are likely to be and how active they’ll be. Focus on areas where the water flows slower or has more structure, as these are prime spots for fish to hide and feed. In lakes, understanding thermoclines (the layers of water with different temperatures) can help you find where fish are most active during specific seasons.

Adapting to Seasonal Changes

The time of year plays a crucial role in how you should approach big water fishing. For instance, early summer is an ideal time to target species like gar, catfish, and freshwater drum as they move closer to the shore. However, as water temperatures change, so do fish behaviors. Adapting your fishing techniques to the season – whether it’s adjusting your bait or where you cast – will improve your catch rate.

Maximizing Your Technique

In big water fishing, technique is everything. Whether you’re casting to specific structures or trolling for fish in deeper water, it’s essential to adjust your method based on the conditions and the species you’re targeting. Learning to switch up your retrieve speed, cast angles, and bait presentation can make a world of difference in how many fish you bring in.

Final Thoughts

The bottom line is that mastering big water fishing is about more than just casting a line. It requires knowledge of the water, the fish, and how to adapt your gear and techniques. By following Jeff Liskay’s expert advice, you’ll be better equipped to handle the challenges of big lakes and rivers, regardless of where you fish. If you’re ready to expand your skills and pick up more advanced strategies, be sure to check out Jeff Liskay’s full masterclass at Anchored Outdoors.

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Rick Matney grew up fly fishing in Northeastern Washington with his Dad and Grandfather. In 2000, he moved to Bozeman Montana for college where he earned a degree in Cell Biology. Working his way through school as a trout guide, he has now turned his passion into a career. Rick guides in Montana and Alaska, with some occasional saltwater flats guiding in Hawaii. Rick is a strong advocate for the conservation of wild steelhead and brings a unique energy to everything he does. Along with his expert knowledge of steelhead, Rick also doubles as gourmet chef.

In this episode of Anchored, we discuss how Rick turned from medical student to full-time fishing guide, his exciting discovery of steelhead in lesser known streams, our upcoming trip at his lodge in Wrangell, AK, and more!

If you enjoy the show and are looking to take your learning to the next level, why not come over and check out what we’ve been up to at Anchored Outdoors. With 30 sequentially organised Masterclasses from guests of the show, we’ve proudly witnessed over 1000 members achieve promising results and confidence on the water. Want to try it out for FREE with no money down and zero commitment? Become an Anchored Insider at anchoredoutdoors.com/premium-insiders/ 

The post Anchored Podcast Ep. 245: Rick Matney on Steelhead Discovery and Our Trip to Alaska appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

Why This Cast Matters

Picture yourself on a breezy day, casting your line on the water. If you’re accustomed to vertical casting alone, you may encounter challenges. The wind can easily push your fly back towards the rod, especially when using heavy flies, which can lead to mishaps. Here’s where the constant tension cast comes into play. It’s purpose-built to keep your fly clear of the rod’s plane, preventing accidents and enhancing your casting efficiency.

The Basics of the Constant Tension Cast

Let’s break down this cast into its fundamental steps. The key to this technique is to maintain constant tension on the fly. Start by making a circle in the air with the fly, which causes it to ascend behind you. Next, adjust this circle into a more oval shape. This flattens the top and bottom of the oval, preparing for an effective cast.

The Importance of Loop Direction

In the constant tension cast, the direction of the loop is crucial. Instead of the loop curling over as in a standard cast, it ascends, resulting in the fly turning over with an upward trajectory. This technique involves moving the fly rod out to the side of your body, ensuring that the fly remains at a safe distance.

Executing the Front Cast

Now, it’s time to transition into the front cast. By bringing the front cast over your head, you maintain the oval shape while executing a more standard front cast. This results in the fly being out to your side and above your head on the back cast and then transitioning smoothly over your head on the front cast.

Common Mistakes and Tips

But angler beware! Justin has observed a few common errors in this casting technique. One significant mistake is starting the back cast too low, which can create a dome-like trajectory. The key is to pause briefly at the highest point of your back cast before moving into the forward cast. This brief pause is crucial for maintaining control and precision.

When Should You Use This Cast?

This casting style proves exceptionally effective when dealing with heavy flies and fast-sinking lines. One common challenge in such setups is the shockwave effect, where the fly tends to bounce back, causing disruptions in the line. The constant tension cast, characterized by its ascending motion, effectively minimizes this effect, resulting in a smoother and more controlled cast.

Watch it Here

Well, there you have it – Justin Duggan’s take on the Tension or Oval Cast. This brief introduction provides valuable insights, but there’s much more to explore in his masterclass. If you’re serious about improving your fly fishing skills and want to learn all of Justin’s secrets and techniques, consider enrolling in the full class. It’s an investment that can boost your skills, enhance your fishing experience, and lead to more rewarding adventures on the water.

The post Learning the Constant Tension/Oval Cast with Justin Duggan appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

Gear Essentials for Big Fly Fishing

If you want to catch fish with big flies, you need the right gear. McGregor recommends a 9 or 10-weight rod, which is strong enough to handle these larger patterns. He also emphasizes the importance of the line, recommending an integrated shooting head style line. This type, with its aggressive front taper, is designed to make it easy to load and cast large flies efficiently. As for reels, McGregor notes that while the specific reel is not critical, choosing a lighter setup can significantly reduce fatigue during a day of repetitive casting.

Leader Construction and Tippet Selection

McGregor likes simple leaders for casting big flies. He recommends using heavier tippets for two reasons: to resist abrasion and to help the fly turn over. With this, a leader made of 60-pound material and a tippet of 40 or 30 pounds is ideal. This setup is durable and effective, especially when fishing structures where fish might hide.

Casting Techniques for Large Flies

Casting large flies is a different ballgame; thus, McGregor’s top tip is to slow down and focus on a smooth acceleration. This technique allows the line to fully straighten out on the back cast, ensuring the large fly is aerodynamically positioned for the next cast. The key is to avoid over-exerting yourself and rushing the cast, as this can cause the fly to lose its trajectory and become tangled.

Moreover, limiting false casting is also crucial. In fact, McGregor advises against excessive false casting, as it can lead to timing issues and fatigue. Instead, he recommends a more efficient approach: fish the fly all the way back to the rod tip, then with minimal false casts, slip a little line out and lay the fly down. In other words, take your time, be smooth, and don’t overdo it.

Enhancing Accuracy and Efficiency

One key tip for accuracy is to run the line through your fingers during the cast. This technique allows for minor adjustments and precise placement of the fly, which is particularly important when fishing near structures. Another efficient method is the water haul cast (water-load), which uses the water’s resistance to load the rod and propel the fly forward, reducing the need for additional false casts.

Retrieve Techniques for Articulated Baitfish Patterns

Perhaps the most important thing to remember is that retrieval is just as crucial as casting in fly fishing. McGregor proposes a few retrieves for articulated baitfish patterns:

• Rip and Pause: This involves a fast strip followed by a pause, keeping the line tight for immediate response to a bite. Variations in speed can trigger strikes, especially during pauses.
• Roly Poly or Continuous Retrieve: Ideal for a uniform swimming action, this method involves tucking the rod under the arm and steadily retrieving the line, mimicking a lure fisherman’s slow roll.
• Rod Tip Bump: Using the rod tip to impart action, this technique creates a side-to-side motion, perfect for deeper water or varying the action of the fly.

It’s important to note that here, each retrieve offers unique advantages and can be adapted based on the behavior of the target fish.

Understanding Fish Behavior and Fly Positioning

The final point that McGregor emphasizes is the importance of understanding where fish are in the water column. He points out that Murray Cod, with eyes located on top of their heads, can feed from the bottom to the top of the water column. This versatility implies that even in deeper waters, a super-fast sinking line is not always essential. Instead, choosing the appropriate line for the depth and adjusting the retrieve accordingly can make a significant difference in success.

Watch it Here

At the end of the day, fly fishing with large, articulated baitfish patterns large, articulated baitfish patterns presents a unique and exciting challenge. By incorporating these tips from Cam, anglers can enhance their skills and enjoy greater success. Whether it’s refining gear choices, mastering casting techniques, or understanding the nuances of different retrieves, each element plays a crucial role in the art of fly fishing.

And for those planning a fishing adventure in Australia, consider booking with McGregor through River Escapes for a hands-on experience with one of the masters of the sport.

The post Advanced Fly Fishing: Mastering Large, Articulated Baitfish Patterns appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

Jake Jordan is a renowned fly-fishing guide and instructor who’s been in the fishing business for over seventy years. Founder of STH Reels and World Class Angler, an early fly shop in the Florida Keys, Jake has been at the forefront of many changes in the big game world. In this episode of Anchored, we discuss how he got his start, fly fishing for tarpon before it became overly popular, fishing for marlin and what makes them special, Mako reels, and more. Reach Jake at http://www.jakejordan.com/ or via phone at 1-305-872-6060.

Prefer to watch? Tune in on YouTube:

The post Anchored Podcast Ep. 229: Jake Jordan on Big Game Fly Fishing, STH Reels and the World Class Angler appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

Conway Bowman has been on my list of podcast guests since this show first began. Nine seasons later, it’s finally happened! In this episode of Anchored, I sit down with Conway to learn more about his adventurous lifestyle, how he became known as THE fly fishing guide for mako sharks, why Mako’s may just be the ultimate gamefish and more.

Prefer to watch? Tune in on YouTube:

The post Anchored Podcast Ep. 226: Conway Bowman on Staying Young and Fly Fishing for Mako Sharks appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

Drew Chicone has made a name for himself as one of the industry’s top fly tiers… and rightfully so. The author of 15 books and a stream of impressive patterns, Drew keeps his finger on innovation, all while continuously providing education and value to his followers and readers. 

In this episode of Anchored, Drew shares his opinion on putting scent on flies, UV materials, the infamous crab, and the ingenuity that goes behind being a ground-breaking fly tier in the industry today.

This episode of Anchored is brought to you by Brush Creek Ranch and their French Creek Sportsmen’s Club.
Located on the historic Sanger Ranch—settled in the 1860s and known as the ‘crown jewel’ of Wyoming’s Platte River Valley—the long held traditions of the outdoor sporting lifestyle continue to this day at French Creek Sportsmen’s Club.

Born of generations of the finest sporting heritage, their ultra-secluded fly-fishing and hunting paradise will far exceed any expectations. With friends or family, only 12 guests have exclusive access to the Sportsmen’s Club at a time. Find more info here.

Connect with Anchored

• AnchoredOutdoors.com
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• On Facebook: @AnchoredOutdoorsOfficial
• On YouTube: Anchored with April Vokey
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Photos by Adam Barker.

The post Anchored Ep. 207: Drew Chicone on Scenting Flies, UV, Crabs and more appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

In Part One, we took a closer look at sinking lines and their history, applications and general composition. Now it’s time to explore the two most popular sinking lines sold today: integrated shooting heads and full-sink fly lines.

Integrated Shooting Heads

Integrated shooting head fly lines take the shooting head concept to the next level by integrating the running line and weighted head into a single line. Here, the running line is a length of level fly line, which then transitions into a short taper and single-density head (or belly).

These lines are made to quickly load and shoot with ease, allowing anglers to cover water swiftly and efficiently. Some integrated shooting heads are designed to fish high in the water column, while others can reach significant depths. They’re able to turn over flies powerfully, as well as hold depths on a rapid retrieve, making them the perfect tool for streamer fishing.

The heads on integrated shooting heads aren’t long, typically averaging only 25’ to 30’. They’re sold at different grain weights to cover several line weights. The weights of these run from 150 gr. to over 500 gr. and the heads can range in density from floating to fast-sinking.

These are probably the most versatile of sinking lines as they have such a wide range of use. Line cores and coating can be switched up to maximize performance in various water temperature ranges from cold-water trout to saltwater tropics. Combined with various densities and sink-rates, we can select a line tailored to a specific application.

The following chart gives a general overview of grain weight to line weight, sink rate and depth range.

The great thing about these lines is how easy it is to cast them far and with minimal effort. Once the head is out of the rod tip, there is no need to continue false casting. In fact, the cast will likely fall apart if you let too much line out because the caster abruptly goes from feeling the weight of the head to a virtually weightless running line.

Instead, once the head is out of the rod tip, it’s surprisingly easy to simply shoot the line on the forward cast and let the weight of the head carry the running line out. Incorporating a double haul will add additional distance, but most beginners work way too hard when casting these lines (until they trust the rod and head to do the work).

With a known sink rate, it is easy to count these lines down to a specific depth (within reason) where you want to present the fly. The maximum practical depth for these lines is around 30 feet. With the long head and thin running line, the fly will stay in this range for an extended period of time on the retrieve. Simple math shows a Sink 6 head (6 ips rate) takes 20 seconds for the line to reach a depth of 10 feet. This actually gives pretty precise depth placement of the fly—especially on stillwater or in areas with slow current. If current or boat movement is involved, this depth will decrease a little, but after a bit of experience with these lines you’ll get a feel for where the fly is.

We also see these lines used in true big-game situations. Built on extra-strong cores of up to 100 lb. breaking strength and heads up to 750 gr., these lines are made to tackle a variety of bluewater species such as sailfish, tuna, giant trevally, and marlin. They load heavy rods quickly and turn over the largest flies.

Full-Sink Lines

The last lines we’re going to look at are full-sink lines. Sinking lines have been around for over 100 years, as the original fly lines—made from silk—sunk when they got wet. These lines had to be dried and then dressed with a floating substance in order to fish on the surface, which is how they were generally used. There is very little in the literature mentioning early lines used to present flies below the surface.

We noted earlier that the first modern sinking lines, known as Wet Cel, were introduced in 1960. Here, the entire length of the line was made to sink below the surface. These were revolutionary because they were made in specific line weights and could be cast as a regular fly line. This opened up a whole new range of fishing opportunities for fly anglers.

Full-sink lines mean precisely that—the entire length of the line is made to sink below the surface. These can range from super-slow-sink designs made to keep flies in the surface film, to lines designed to sink rapidly and crawl flies along the bottom.

These lines are mostly used for lakes and ponds with little current present, although they’re often fished from a drifting or slowly moving boat. They’ve reached their present level of sophistication for use on the reservoirs of the UK and lakes of western North America where trout are the main target and anglers need a series of lines throughout the fishing season.

Many of these lines are quite specialized. For example, “hover” lines stay in the film, suspended just below the surface to keep flies in “the zone”. They may be used to fish floating flies to minimize the drag created from being pushed by the wind. This helps keep the fly floating naturally.

There are also lines where the full length of the line is clear to reduce visibility and give a super-stealthy presentation. These clear intermediate lines can be a game changer on clear, calm, flat water, turning reluctant fish into active feeders. They also have applications for other types of fishing such as stalking carp on shallow flats.

The early full-sink lines were a single density, and a fast-sink version tended to sag from the rod tip creating slack and reducing the ability to detect strikes and get a good hook set. This problem was addressed by the introduction of multiple-density lines. These lines are densest (sink fastest) at the tip with less density at the mid-section and back end. The goal is to achieve a straight-line connection from the rod tip to the fly with minimal sag. This improves bite detection and allows for a better hook set when a fish hits.

These lines have two or three density changes in them, and the premium versions have a graduated change between densities to eliminate hinging when being cast. They are offered in slow-sinking to fast-sinking versions. As with the integrated shooting heads, a countdown method can be used to keep the fly in the desired fishing zone. Once again, we will put the practical depth range to around 30 feet.

There are also situations where the fly needs to be crawled just off the bottom. Here, the fastest sinking section may be in the middle with a lighter density at the tip. This keeps the fly off the bottom, visible and away from weeds and debris. If fished mid-depth, this type of line gives the impression of a critter swimming towards the bottom, which is often a great strike trigger.

Over the years these lines have become quite sophisticated. Some manufactures have added “hang markers”, which are there to tell the angler how much line is out. This helps to gauge fly depth and indicates when to pick up and cast again. For many, these lines are a key tool for having consistent success on the water.

Add Ons

There are various leaders and tips that can be added onto conventional lines to take flies below the surface. Poly leaders are short, polymer-coated monofilament leaders available in different densities. Though designed for swung-fly use, they can also be added to single-hand lines to get the fly a bit deeper on the retrieve. These do not significantly increase the line weight for casting as long as they are used with a 7-wt or heavier line.

Some of the tips made for Spey lines can also be added to single-hand lines. Here we need to be aware of the grain weight of the tip being used so we don’t overload the rod when casting overhead. For example, the manufacturer standard for an 8-wt. line is 210 gr. If we add a 10 ft. Scientific Anglers TC Tip that weighs 120 gr, we are 330 gr. total (which is more in the range of an 11-wt. line for overhead casting). In most cases, this is too much for our 8-wt. to handle

Adding tips is best done with heavier weight rods (8-wt. and above) to give some added versatility if needed. You can quickly adjust a line with the addition of a tip if you don’t have a suitable sinking-tip line. While this is the norm when it comes to two-hand lines, it is outside the box with single-hand lines.

Similarly, a short floating tip can also be added to a sinking line to work a fly just off the bottom or keep it above weeds. In any of these applications, casting may be compromised a bit as these tips will likely hinge when cast overhead. However, this is not a permanent set up, rather it is a quick solution to a problem that needs to be addressed at that time. Whenever you are on the water, it pays to be flexible and adjust to the situation you are faced with.

Wrapping Up

No matter where you fish, sinking lines will likely increase your fly-fishing opportunities and success. Fly line technology continues to advance. Durable coatings with wider temperature ranges extend line life and effectiveness. Controlled stretch cores give better bite-detection and allow easier hook sets. Stronger cores allow larger fish to be targeted. As the limits of fly fishing continue to expand, sinking lines will play a major role.

The post From Top to Bottom: A Look at Sinking Lines (Part Two) appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.

If there’s one piece of fly-fishing gear the average angler can add to their kit to open up a whole new dimension of angling opportunities, it’s sinking lines. Sinking lines can be used in a wide range of scenarios to take flies to fish where regular floating lines just can’t get the job done. Understanding when and how to put a sinking line to use can be a game changer for many fly fishers. In some situations, they’re an absolute necessity.  

In this article, we’re going to take a look at the various types of sinking lines available today and how they can be used. Single-hand rods will be the focus due to the extensive range of waters and species that can be targeted—but remember that regardless of where you fish, having some sort of a sinking line with you makes sense and is often the difference between fish and no fish.

Introduction to Sinking Lines

OK, so why do we need anything beyond a floating line? Can’t you can just use a weighted fly and maybe some split shot to take it below the surface? Yes, a weighted fly works well when it’s dead-drifted under an indicator or fished Euro-nymph style, but there’s only so much you can do with solely a weighted fly and a floating line.

If you need to swim the fly below the surface for any distance and have it hold depth for a period of time, the sinking line comes in to play. Sure, you could use a 20-foot leader and heavy fly to try to get your fly down around 20 feet (if you could even cast it), but as soon as you begin the retrieve, your fly is going to start climbing towards the surface. The faster you strip, the faster the fly climbs and the higher it goes. The result is a fly that spent very little time in the depths—at the very most, 3-5 feet.

The sinking line, however, will hold the fly at a certain depth for an extended period of time. To understand this, let’s take a look at modern sinking lines, how they’re made, and their ideal applications. 

A Brief History

The earliest sinking lines were used in big-water applications. Sections of lead-core trolling line were attached to a monofilament shooting line and set up as shooting heads. This configuration brought the fly down, but was somewhat hazardous to cast as the lead-core was not very flexible. Tangles were also a significant problem, as well as needing to duck on the forward cast to avoid injury.  

Back then, use of these lines was limited. They were primarily used for northeast striper fishing or for targeting Chinook salmon in deep coastal estuaries. They weren’t really practical as a general fly-fishing line simply due to the weight of line that needed to be cast. Most were used on 10-weight outfits.

Eventually lead powder was mixed into PVC and flexible shooting heads were made. Varying the amount of lead powder and PVC helped control the grain weight and sink rate of the head. It was the beginning of full-sink lines, where the running line and belly were integrated as a single unit and manufactured into various line weights. Scientific Anglers introduced these first lines called Wet Cel in 1960. Since then, line technology has advanced to a point where sinking lines are made to cover a wide array of uses in freshwater, saltwater, tropical and coldwater scenarios. They can be made up of multiple densities and range in depth from just below the surface to several meters down.

In 1980, manufacturers turned to tungsten powder because of the toxicity of lead. Nowadays, the amount of tungsten powder added to the PVC or urethane base of the line is carefully controlled to achieve certain densities to control the sink rate of the line.  

If we look at sinking lines that are currently offered by manufacturers, we find a staggering assortment of options—trying to select the best options for your needs can be intimidating. Let’s take a look at the various sinking line designs available and where they are best applied.

Sink Tips

In this line design, we’re looking at one-piece lines where most of the line floats and only a portion of it sinks. While there are separate tips that you can add to a two-hand line when swinging flies for steelhead or salmon, that’s not what I’m referring to in this section. The one-piece sink tip lines are weight-forward designs made to fish flies from just below the surface film to depths of around 10 feet. Their length and density of the sinking portion varies.

Sink-tip lines are offered in specific line weights and normally in three primary sink rates. Intermediate tips sink at just over 1 ips (inches per second). Sink 3 averages 3 ips, while Sink 6 is 6 ips. These are usually sold for 5 weight rods and up. The reason for this is that lighter line weights aren’t really practical because the tungsten powder needed to sink the line will exceed the designated line weight.

These lines are primarily used to cast and strip streamers in lakes, rivers and streams when fishing chironomids, leeches, and various nymphs in stillwater situations. They can be used both when wading or fishing from a boat. The base material used in line construction is clear and has a density slightly higher than water, so the intermediate tips can be kept undyed for a super-stealthy presentation near the surface.  

By switching up the length and density of the sinking section, the angler can control how deep the fly is fished and how fast it can be retrieved. For example, short, clear tips (5’) are used to fish small flies with a slow retrieve near or in the surface film of the water. A longer (15’) Type 6 tip will keep a streamer down 6 feet or so on a fast retrieve. With the main body of the line floating, a general rule of thumb is the shorter the tip and faster the retrieve, the shallower the fly will run. Another note to make is that since most of the line floats, these lines are quite easy to pick up and recast.  

As fly fishing horizons have expanded, so has the application of these lines. They are now built up to 12-wt. for use in extreme environments such as the Amazon and saltwater flats, used across the world for peacock bass, tarpon, permit and other gamefish.

The next lines we’re going to cover are integrated shooting heads and full sink lines. Fly line technology has advanced significantly over the years, and modern sinking lines are precision fishing tools. As anglers, it’s helpful to at least understand the tools that are available to us for less than desirable circumstances or tricky to reach fish. Be sure to check back in a few days for Part Two, or subscribe to the Anchored Outdoors newsletter to have updates brought to you.

The post From Top to Bottom: A Look at Sinking Lines (Part One) appeared first on Anchored Outdoors.